Archive for the ‘Gardening’ Category
June 6th, 2010 | 
Author: Questions and Answers on Gardening
Question #1
How to Test Soil For Magnesium Level
This question is in response to last month’s emailed gardening tip. You mentioned to make sure to do a soil test to see what your magnesium level is before adding any Epsom salt to outdoor plants. You said, “Without knowing your current magnesium levels, you shouldn’t apply Epsom salt at all to outdoor plants. Many areas have almost toxic proportions of magnesium present in the soil, and continually adding more will end up poisoning the plants and the soil.” That’s great, but how do I test for Magnesium levels?
Jim Trueman, UK
ANSWER:
Hi Jim! Great question. Since most home “do-it-yourself” soil testing kits only test for pH, Nitrogen, Potassium, and Phosphorous, in order to find out your calcium and magnesium levels you’ll have to take a sample to a local soil testing lab. Every county has one, and the cost is usually around $10 (£5). It’s fast and very accurate.
The weekendgardener…
Question #2:
Out Of Control Weeds
We have recently moved into our house, and the gardens are full of weeds. We have tried pulling them out, we have tried both chemical and organic weed killers, and tried solarization. Is there any other way. We just can’t seem to contain them.
Brad Martin, Lismore, NSW Australia
ANSWER:
Hi Brad! I can hear and understand your frustration. Nothing is worse than a battle of the weeds. Unfortunately, the best advice I can give you is diligence, and try mixing up your techniques a bit more.
The problem with a lot of chemical weed killers is they do a great job of killing what’s there, but if you simply leave that area bare, and don’t do anything else, new weed and grass seeds can blow in and take root in the now clean and open area.
You also have to realize there are perennial and annual weeds, which means that at any time of the year, some kind of weed will be growing. The trick is to keep after it year-round and in a season or two, you will see a huge decrease in the problem as you kill each weed’s growing cycle and start to get the upper hand.
So what I would suggest is to pick a general weed killing method, I like solarization because it’s chemical free, but many people opt for RoundUp or another systemic weed killer.
Once you have killed everything back, come back in and put down some corn gluten, I mentioned this up on question # 6, see above if you didn’t read it.
Corn gluten is great because it will keep any new seeds from germinating. Keep in mind, it will keep all seeds from germinating, so if you are planning on starting a vegetable garden from seed, this will be a problem.
If that is the case, and you can’t put down a pre-emergent, put down a good layer of mulch, 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) to keep any new weeds smothered.
Hang in there, you have the right idea, and in time, your garden is going to look great.
The weekendgardener…
Question #3:
What Is Heavy Soil
I want to start a water garden. I went and bought a Papyrus plant. I was told to repot plant and to use “heavy soil” and water plant fertilizer. Can you tell me what “heavy soil” is? And what type of fertilizer to use that can be used with fish in pond?
Ramona Diorec, Honolulu, HI, USA
ANSWER:
Hi Ramona! Good question. Soils come in various “textures” meaning there sandy, loam, and clay soils, which some people can refer to as light, medium, and heavy soils.
Heavy soils (the same as a clay soil) are called that because they contain more clay, are sticky, and have little pore space, drain slowly and retain water and nutrients longer, which tend to make them more fertile than other soils, and are ideal for pond plants.
A medium soil (the same as a loam soil) which is considered the ideal garden soil (not for pond plants, but general gardening), because it has a nice balance of 3 particle types, clay, silt, and sand, giving it a combination of large and small pore spaces allowing it to have air for healthy root growth, and to drain well and lose nutrients at only a moderate rate.
Lastly, a light soil (the same as a sandy soil) contains particles that are fairly large and irregular, and have large pore spaces between the particles giving the soil lots of air, which drains very quickly losing nutrients and water. That’s why plants in sand need watering and feeding more often.
In your situation, you will want to use a heavy clay soil, and there are such soils packaged specifically for aquatic plants, so ask for that. In a pond situation, using the wrong type of soil can cause numerous problems, so start your plants out correctly with the right soil.
Now, just a few extra tips for you. One of the problems with ponds is that they can get a brown tinge to the water. This is because the soil has come out of the pot, which can happen in a high wind when the pot blows or falls over spilling soil into the water, or the soil washes out of the bottom of the pot. To avoid this problem here are a couple of things you can do:
1. Use a shorter wider pot (sometimes called a “pan”) because it is less likely to blow over than a taller pot, especially if it is a taller growing plant (like some Papyrus); and make sure that you add some medium sized stones on top of the soil to keep the soil in the pot. The stones will also add extra weight which will keep the pot from tipping over in the pond in the wind.
2. Line the pot with burlap, weed barrier mat or a few layers of damp newspaper. After the bottom of the pot is lined then add your soil and plant. This helps keep the soil from washing out the drainage holes into the pond. Once the plant is potted up, soak the entire pot in a bucket that is large enough to cover the top of the pot for about 24 hours. This will allow any loose soil to be washed off into the bucket of water and not in your pond.
3. When you are putting the plant in the pond make sure that you slowly lower the pot into the water rather than just plunge the pot into the water. By lowering the pot slowly this will keep the force of the water from washing the soil out of the pot and into the water.
The final part of your question was about fertilizer. There are many made especially for ponds, just ask for fertilizer for Pond Plants. It will be safe for all aquatic life, and it won’t turn water green from algae growth.
The weekendgardener…
Question #4:
Leafminers on Tomatoes
I have 5 pots of “patio” tomotoes growing in large pots on my balcony. All 5 plants have tan “schrigely” marks on them, as you can see in the picture. Not all leaves have these marks. Also, the newest growth leaves on top of plants do not have these marks (yet??). Any suggestions as to the problem? Thanks.
Bob Coyne, FL, USA
ANSWER:
Hi Bob! First of all, thank you for sending a picture with your question. It always is so helpful to be able to see exactly what you are talking about.
What you have are called Leafminers. They like to feed on bean, beet, cabbage, chard, lettuce, pepper, tomato, and other vegetables; also many ornamentals, especially chrysanthemum and nasturtium.
The larvae tunnel through the leaf tissue making hollowed-out, winding mines. They can kill seedlings, but the good news is that on older plants, such as your tomatoes, the larvae are more of a nuisance, and a cosmetic issue, than a serious problem.
There are a few things you can do:
1. Handpick and destroy mined leaves.
2. Remove any egg clusters you may see on the undersides of the leafs as soon as they are visible in the spring.
3. You can also spray neem oil. Read more about neem oil.
The weekendgardener
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Do you have a green thumb, or just the desire to grow your own plants, but find that you are restricted by lack of space? The Bonsai Plant may be the answer to your dilemma. Cultivating the Bonsai Plant has become very popular, partly for the fact that they don’t take much space, and they are a very decorative addition to the home.
There are several types of Bonsai Plants that can be grown indoors, including the Chinese Bird Plumb, Fukien Tea Tree, Chinese Privet, Fig Tree, Sacred Bamboo, Buddhist Pine, along with several others.
You can decide the size and shape of the Bonsai Plant by growing them in little container. Doing this will manage the growth of roots. In addition, you must trim them frequently; this will ensure that you Bonsai Plants remain healthy and beautiful.
There is a specific method to pruning the Bonsai Plant. With Bonsai Trees, there is a minor bud at the beginning of the leaf. The Bonsai Plant must be trimmed in the direction in which the bud is facing, as the new shoot will grow from there. With the small trees, to shape the tree, you simply must trim it. With bigger trees, you will have to bend the branches and trunk to give it a shape. The shaping and structuring of Bonsai Plant is done during the growing season only.
The Bonsai Plant needs plenty of sunlight, but must be kept in moderate temperatures that are not too cold, or too hot. If you cannot keep them in a bright room with large windows, you may choose to keep them outdoors in a semi shady location.
One of the major differences between growing the Bonsai Plant is that unlike many other houseplants, or outside garden plants, fertilizer is a necessity for these types of plants. You should only use a fertilizer that is specifically formulated for the Bonsai Plant, and use it weekly during the summer and monthly during he winter.
Proper watering is also extremely important. These plants should only be watered when the soil begins to dry, then they may be saturated but not watered again until the soil becomes semi dry.
Keep in mind that too much fertilizer or water will kill the roots of your Bonsai Plant. These beautiful plants are somewhat delicate, but once you learn how to care for them, they are a great hobby, and add a fantastic touch to your home while bringing you closer to nature.
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Posted in Gardening | 
Tags: Bonsai, bonsai plant, indoor bonsai, Indoor bonsai plant | 
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If a once-healthy lawn no longer seems to have the dense, lush surface it had (or perhaps “dense” and “lush” are two words that have never been associated with that specific lawn), now is the time to identify the cause of the problem. A lawn must be hardy to survive weed, insect and disease attacks.
“Pesticides” is the broad term for the insecticides, herbicides and fungicides meant to eliminate or control weeds, nonbeneficial insects, fungus and other diseases. Pesticides may be either synthetic or organic and are used to control a pest-be it a weed, insect or disease-problem that has become out of control.
“It is usually a good idea to look closer at your lawn to catch potential pest problems before they become too difficult to manage,” says Parwinder Grewal, Ph.D., the Ohio State University associate professor of entomology, nematology and environment science. “For example, it is too late for grub control when skunks have started digging the turf in search of a nice meal of fully developed juicy grub larvae.”
The first step is to identify the pest and the conditions that led to the pest infestation. After making sure the pest population is at a level that would cause unacceptable damage to the lawn, pesticides may be part of the treatment plan. If you choose to use one, keep these tips in mind:
• Always read and follow label directions.
• Do not apply pesticides on windy days, as they may drift beyond the application area.
• Spot treat for weed and insect infestations whenever possible.
• Do not apply a pesticide in or near a water source and keep it off pavement or impervious surfaces that could be washed into water bodies.
• Stay out of treated areas until the spray has dried, dust has settled or as directed on the product label.
Remember, not all insects are pests. Less than 5 percent of all insects are harmful and most of these have natural predators such as other insects, birds, bats and toads to keep them in check.
Robust lawns are more resistant to pest attacks than lawns under stress. Correcting soil pH, proper fertilization and other management practices that encourage healthy lawn growth are all part of creating a beautiful lawn year after year.
While some homeowners prefer applying lawn care products to control or eliminate pests themselves, others might feel more comfortable hiring a professional to apply the products. Regardless, environmental stewardship should be a top priority when managing and maintaining lawns and landscapes.
“A lawn is the focal point of recreational activity and aesthetic beauty of a property. Carefully and frequently analyzing a lawn for pests, weeds, diseases and insects will help to identify problems before a threshold of damage occurs. Correcting the problems will ensure a healthy lawn, save money on costly repairs and enhance the quality and appearance of a lawn,” says John Gibson, director of operations for Swingle Tree, Lawn & Christmas Decor, Denver, Colo., and president of the Professional Landcare Network, a national association for professional landscape contractors.
Gibson is also a member of Project EverGreen, a national non-profit organization formed to raise the awareness of the environmental, economic and lifestyle benefits of landscapes and promote the significance of those who preserve and enhance green spaces at home, work and play.
